An allergy is an abnormal reaction of the immune system. Normally, the immune system fights off foreign agents like bacteria and viruses to protect the body. In an animal with allergies, the immune system is reacting in an abnormal way to substances like pollens, dust, mold, fleas, or certain foods. An allergy to inhaled particles, like dust or pollens, is called “atopy“.
What are symptoms of allergies in dogs?
Most dogs with atopy get itchy skin. They may lick their feet, rub their faces and/or scratch their bodies. The skin may get red and irritated, and skin infections may occur because of the scratching and trauma to the skin. Eventually, the skin may be chronically irritated and be thick and leathery in certain areas. Other common symptoms include recurrent ear infections, greasy or flaky skin, or hair thinning. Dogs may less commonly have irritated eyes or nasal discharge.
Food allergies frequently have the same symptoms as atopy, but some dogs also have digestive upset such as vomiting or diarrhea.
Dogs with flea allergies usually have itchy, inflamed skin, particularly on the back near the tail.
How are allergies diagnosed?
Atopy is diagnosed by evaluation of the symptoms and response to treatment, and skin or blood tests are done to determine exactly what the dog is allergic to. These tests are necessary prior to hyposensitization treatment (see treatment section below). Food allergies can have the same symptoms as atopy but require a hypoallergenic diet trial to diagnose them (see treatment section).
How can allergies be treated?
Dogs with allergies should be on a flea preventative, as they are frequently highly allergic to fleas. Keep allergic pets away from other biting insects as well, if possible.
Monitor carefully for any circumstances that seem to increase your dog’s symptoms, such as swimming, warm humid weather, certain foods or treats, shampoos, medications, season of year, use of a woodstove, etc. Knowing what worsens your dog’s symptoms can allow you to avoid those situations and can help make the diagnosis.
Keep the skin and haircoat clean and brushed– this allows you to monitor the skin condition more easily and reduces the likelihood of infection. In some situations specific shampoos, wipes or topical products may be advised.
Specific Treatment for Atopy
Antihistamines can help reduce the symptoms. Some dogs are sleepy when first started on antihistamines, but this side effect usually goes away after a few days. These are safe for long term use. Keep in mind that antihistamines need to be given regularly, often several times a day, in order to be effective. It may take a week or longer to see improvement after starting these medications. These medications are available over-the-counter, but be sure to use products that contain only these ingredients — many multi-symptom products for humans have other ingredients that are not safe for dogs.
Fatty Acid Supplements: Omega 3 fatty acid supplementation can reduce skin inflammation in dogs. This natural product, derived from fish oil, is very safe. It is usually easiest to feed a diet formulated to have the appropriate omega 3 ratio, rather than to supplement with fish oil capsules. Non prescription foods such as Science Diet Sensitive Skin and Stomach may be recommended for some cases of atopy. In other situations prescription diets may be advised.
Limit exposure to allergens — many dogs have most severe symptoms in spring or fall, and keeping the air conditioner on can help filter the indoor air at these times. Change filters in air conditioning units and furnaces frequently. For dogs with allergies to dust or dust mites, removing or vacuuming carpeting frequently and washing curtains can reduce household dust.
Cytopoint is an innovative new injectable therapy that targets itch at its source lasting 4-8 weeks per injection. This injection works by specifically neutralizing one of the main proteins that sends the itch signal to the brain. This is a very safe and effective treatment with low risk of side effects.
Apoquel is an oral medication that stops itch at its source regardless of the type of allergy. It begins relieving itch within 4 hours and effectively controls the itch for 24 hours. Apoquel can be used long term if needed for continued itch relief. In studies, the side effects from apoquel were mild and similar to those seen with placebo (sugar pills).
Corticosteroids — Drugs like prednisone are usually very effective in reducing itching related to atopy. A short, tapering course of prednisone (or sometimes a single injection) can be used to control severe itching. However, long term use of corticosteroids is not usually recommended, due to side effects that can occur with continual usage (elevated liver enzymes, increased risk of diabetes). Short term use is generally safe, although some animals will show side effects such as increased thirst, increased urination, and increased appetite. These side effects will go away once the dosage is reduced or discontinued.
Hyposensitization Therapy — “Allergy shots” or a newer version of hyposensitization therapy in the form of a drop under the tongue (sublingual allergens) are used to train the immune system to respond more appropriately to the allergens in the environment. This process starts with testing to determine what the animal is allergic to, and then the owner is taught to either give injections or use allergen drops under the tongue on a regular basis at home. This treatment is usually continued for months or years or life long, depending on the animal’s response. For testing, the patient needs to be off of some of their allergy medications for 6 weeks and it is best to do the test during the time of year that symptoms are the worst. Hyposensitization therapy is the only treatment that can decrease the immune system’s response to the offending allergens leading to long term improvement in how the body responds to allergens.
Antibiotics are frequently needed to control secondary bacterial infections of the skin, often caused by excessive chewing or licking. Medicated shampoos, wipes or topical products may also be used to help reduce or prevent secondary infections.
Yeast infections can also occur secondary to atopy, and antifungal treatment may be necessary.
Diagnosis and Treatment of Food Allergies
In animals that are suspected of having food allergies, a hypoallergenic diet trial is necessary to diagnose this condition. The animal is placed on a special diet that does not contain any ingredients that could be triggering allergies. Usually a minimum of eight weeks is needed for a diet trial. It is very important that the dog not be given any other foods during the trial, as even a small amount of an allergenic food could make the dog itchy. No treats, rawhides, beef flavored heartworm preventatives, etc. should be given during the trial. If the dog has food allergies, the symptoms should improve during the trial, but this may take several weeks to see improvement.
After the diet trial, different food items are slowly introduced to see what foods the dog can tolerate, and which cause problems.
Allergies in dogs are frequently a lifelong disorder, but most dogs can lead comfortable, normal lives with treatment. It can take trial and error to find the right combination of therapies each pet will need to control their symptoms as all pets allergies are different. Working closely and openly communicating with your veterinarian is the most successful strategy in managing allergies.
Parasite resistance has become a growing problem in grazing animals such as cattle, goats, sheep and horses. We recommend watching the video below to learn a little more about parasite resistance and how it could affect your herd. The video, which was released by the FDA, discusses detecting resistance, planning a deworming schedule, and what questions to ask your veterinarian about controlling parasite resistance. For more information or to talk to a doctor about deworming, please give us a call at (608) 592-7755.
Maintaining a healthy weight may be the most important element in assuring the best possible quality of life for a dog with osteoarthritis. Body weight not only increases the load on all joints, but inflammatory proteins produced by fat cells can cause the symptoms of arthritis to worsen. The goal for your pet is to have a slight “waist” when viewed from above, a “tummy tuck” when viewed from the side. You should be able to easily feel your dog’s ribs, without seeing them. To monitor your dog’s weight, please have him/her weighed periodically. A simple way to start a weight control program is to replace high calorie treats with raw vegetables (carrots/green beans) and decrease the volume of food in each meal to ¾ of the amount currently fed.
Low Impact Activity
A low impact exercise regimen is also an important factor in preventing some of the clinical signs associated with osteoarthritis. The goal of regular low impact physical activity is to maintain good muscle mass and prevent muscle atrophy while protecting the articular cartilage of the joints. The two best low impact activities include daily leash walks at a slow pace and swimming.
Remember the three “R’s” when planning your dog’s exercise regimen:
Be Reasonable — Start with small leash walks, no long hikes or jogging.
Be Rate-conscious — Start your dog off slowly and increase exercise time gradually.
Be Regular — Make exercise a routine.
Joint Specific Diets
Specific “joint protective” canine diet formulations are available. These diets have a favorable ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids which may decrease inflammation in joints. Hills Science Diet J/D is one of the prescription foods that can be beneficial in promoting joint health. If you decide to use one of these, gradually introduce your dog to this new food over 1-2 weeks by slowly adding the joint specific diet while decreasing the amount of normal food. Typically results are seen within 21-30 days of being on a therapeutic diet; benefits increase the longer your pet is on this type of diet.
Joint Supplements / Nutraceuticals
If your pet cannot go on a prescription diet for joint health due to allergies, sensitive stomach or other reasons, one might choose to supplement their current diet with nutraceuticals. Some chondroprotective (joint cartilage protective) agents are classified as “nutraceuticals” and include glucosamine, chondroitin, glycosaminoglycans, omega fatty acids, plus many others. The concern with nutraceuticals is that they are somewhere between a nutritional supplement and a pharmaceutical agent. The products are not regulated or tested by any agency; in addition, their safety and efficacy does not need to be documented prior to marketing. Despite this, many people and animals alike do seem to experience relief when taking nutraceuticals, and side effects are extremely rare. It is important to realize that you truly get what you pay for when purchasing nutraceuticals, please ask your veterinarian which brands can be trusted.
Non-Steroidal Anti-Inflammatory Drugs (NSAIDS)
Some dogs may require prescription NSAIDS to improve their level of comfort. Examples of these medications include Rimadyl (carprofen), Metacam (meloxicam), Previcox (firocoxib), or Deramaxx (deracoxib). Not all dogs with osteoarthritis need to be on NSAIDS all the time. We will recommend the appropriate dosing schedule for your pet to keep him/her comfortable.
*Many pets will see improvements in their comfort and ease of movement with these methods. For those pets with severe osteoarthritis, other therapies may be suggested. Ask your veterinarian for more details.
There are many reasons why your cat may urinate/defecate inappropriately outside the litter box. Our friendly feline companions may eliminate inappropriately due to medical or behavioral reasons. If any inappropriate elimination, urination or defecation, is observed, it is always best to rule out a medical reason right away by scheduling an exam with sample collection. Many times they are merely just trying to communicate to us that something is wrong.
To prevent reasons, other than medical issues, for inappropriate elimination outside the litter box there are some important guidelines to follow. These guidelines are designed to ensure your kitty has well designated areas to eliminate that promote the best urination and defecation habits.
These tips may seem pretty picky, but cats are fussy when it comes to their bathroom habits:
Numbers do count!
The General Rule is to have one more box than your number of cats (i.e. A two cat household should have 3 litter boxes available).
Make sure the litter box is large enough for your cat.
It is important your cat has enough room to move around in the litter box. Large cats often need x-large boxes or even shallow Rubbermaid bins to use as their litter box.
General rule: the litter box should be 1.5x larger than your car.
Keep it clean!
Would you like to use a toilet that wasn’t flushed? Scoop the litter boxes daily please.
Many cats prefer open/uncovered litter boxes.
Covered litter boxes may hold in odor (more pleasant for us, but not for your cat).
Keep one litter box on each floor of your house.
Some cats, especially older cats, may not be able to “hold it” as well. They may also find it difficult to climb stairs to find the litter box due to arthritis.
Keep litter boxes away from your cat’s eating and sleeping areas.
Would you like to smell the toilet while you eat? Cats are very clean animals. They not only like to keep themselves clean with frequent grooming but they also like to have their sleeping, eating and playing areas clean.
Be careful with “scented” litter.
The smell may be nice for you, but too strong for your cat. Your cat may not like it or may be sensitive to it.
Keep litter boxes in a quiet area (your cat needs privacy).
Loud, crowded areas may be a deterrent for many cats when using the litter box. (Laundry areas, walkways, kitchens are not litter box friendly areas.)
Make sure the litter box is easily accessible.
Older cats may not be able to reach litter boxes in high places, jump over baby gates, or climb stairs.
Lipomas are very common, benign growths in dogs. They are seen less frequently in cats.
These growths consist of fat cells and can range in size from very tiny to ten or more inches in diameter. The most common areas to find lipomas are under the skin in the regions of the abdomen and chest. Most lipomas are fairly soft, non-painful lumps just under the skin.
Diagnosis:
We diagnose a lipoma by taking a sample with a small needle, staining it on a slide, and then looking at the cells under a microscope (a fine needle aspirate). Lipomas are characterized by fat cells with no evidence of infection or other tumor cells. We recommend a fine needle aspirate of any lump you notice on your pet, as microscopic examination is necessary for an accurate diagnosis to help us differentiate benign (non-cancerous) from malignant (cancerous) tumors.
Treatment:
No treatment is necessary for lipomas that remain relatively small and do not bother the animal. Some lipomas can grow large and interfere with movement of a limb, or bother the animal when he or she lies down. In that case, surgical removal is advised. Any lipomas that are growing rapidly should be re-evaluated and another fine needle aspirate performed, or the growth should be removed.
Resolving house-soiling problems may require making changes to several aspects of a cat’s home environment and care. All the changes are interrelated. They will help to provide the optimal litter box/tray and decrease stress by meeting the cat’s other social and environmental needs. They may also include medical treatments and diet suggestions.
Making the following changes to your cat’s home environment may help to resolve your problems. Speak with your veterinarian about coming up with a specialized plan to fit your cat’s needs and personality.
Environmental Management
Number, location and design of litter boxes:
Provide additional litter boxes. Offer some large (1½ times the cat’s length from nose to base of tail) deep, open boxes. Storage containers, sweater boxes and concrete mixing trays are examples. If necessary, cut a door in one end and cover edge with duct tape to avoid sharp edges. Your cat may prefer a hooded litter box if it is kept scrupulously clean.
If your cat often urinates over the edge of the litter box, put plastic covered by newspaper around the litter box to absorb the urine. A rigid sheet of plastic cut so that it can be positioned vertically inside the box can protect adjacent surfaces.
Put the litter boxes in separate locations around the house, ideally in quiet private places that are easy for a cat to access. Locate litter boxes where the cat needs them, such as in previously soiled sites, and in areas separate from other pets’ locations.
Avoid high traffic or remote areas.
Types of litter:
Offer a variety of litter types and allow your cat to choose its favorite. Cats most commonly prefer fine-textured unscented clumping litters.
In addition, examples of alternative litters include play sand, potting soil or peat moss, or a piece of carpet or other soft material used as a temporary measure only and in select cases.
Scooping and changing litter:
Scoop the litter box daily and replenish litter.
Some behaviorists feel that weekly washing and replacing the litter is optimal. Others find that every 2–4 weeks does not compromise the cat’s response. Rarely because of a particularly difficult to control urinary tract infection, daily washing of the litter box may be recommended. Use soap and hot water only; avoid strong chemicals or any ammonia-based products.
Litter attractants:
Herbal products for this use are available in the US (but may not be available in other countries).
An alternative is to sprinkle a small amount of the cat’s urine-soiled litter on top of the clean litter.
Synthetic pheromone sprays or plug-ins (i.e Feliway)
Use a spray or plug-in diffuser in areas we have marked on your house floor plan. Spray vertical surfaces 1–2 feet (up to 0.5 m) from the floor three times daily; use the diffuser 24 hours a day. Replace diffuser refill unit monthly, or sooner if the top of the brown wick becomes pale tan in color.
Litter Box Placement:
Ensure vertical spaces for resting or hiding places are available to all cats.
Use shelves, cat condos or trees to increase separation among cats. The more perceived space, the less stress cats undergo. Provide cardboard boxes and other cozy containers for resting places.
For cats needing increased opportunities for play and predatory behavior, increase window access by using cat trees and shelves.
If outside cats seem to be the stimulus for marking behavior, minimize exposure to them. Block the view through windows by applying something your cat cannot see through or prevent access to the window.
Options include opaque glass decorating sprays, static film, or taping on paper or translucent window coverings. Put rough surface mats outside sliding doors to discourage other animals from resting there.
If your cat lives indoors or does not leave the premises, use motion-activated water sprinklers at the perimeter of the yard to deter animals from entering the area.
Put clothing away rather than leaving it on the floor or accessible to your cat.
Place shoes, backpacks and luggage with unfamiliar odors off the floor and out of your cat’s reach.
Clean outside doors and walls where outdoor cats are spraying. Block drafts to prevent odors from penetrating indoors.
Deny access to affected areas if possible or place an item in the affected area that may discourage house-soiling. For example, food and water bowls placed in the soiled areas may discourage soiling; battery-operated motion-activated lights may illuminate dark private areas that a cat previously soiled.
Behavior management
Behavior modification efforts should focus on positive reinforcement of desired behaviors. Physically punishing a cat during or after house-soiling only creates stress and increases the motivation to continue the behavior. Punishment can lead to fear-related aggression and will almost always reduce the bond between a cat and owner. Punishment also tends to encourage house-soiling in less obvious areas.
If you catch your cat in the act of house-soiling, sneakily distract but do not scare it with noise that is not associated with humans, such as a whistle or by rattling coins in a can. Use your cat’s temperament as a guide to how loud this noise should be.
Praise your cat if you see it using the litter box. Keep a supply of treats near litter box stations for use as rewards
Make sure that adults, children, noisy appliances or assertive cats do not block traffic patterns or a cat’s access to litter boxes, especially in the case of timid or anxious cats.
Place a bell on the collar of the most assertive cat in the house.
Set up multiple food and water stations (one for every cat in the house)
Cleaning Soiled Areas
Many products are available for cleaning areas affected by house-soiling. Urine will fluoresce in the dark under ultraviolet light. Use a black light from a poster store to find soiled areas. Clean affected areas with a good quality urine odor and stain remover according to the type of surface that the cat has soiled. Test products on an inconspicuous area first.Always ensure that you clean a sufficiently large area to remove the odor – this may be up to three times the diameter of a fresh wet patch or stain.
Carpets:
Chemical, bacterial-based and enzyme-based cleaners can all be effective when used as directed.
Scrubbing the area with a 10% solution of biological washing powder (enzyme-based laundry detergent) to remove the protein content of urine, allowing area to dry and then spraying with isopropyl alcohol to remove the fat component is also effective.
You may need to pull the carpet up for several days and treat the subflooring/underlay again using either a specifically designated cleaner or both the washing powder and isopropyl alcohol.
If the padding under the carpet is soiled, cut out the affected area and replace with new padding. Use a concrete sealer if appropriate or a polyurethane or other sealant product if there is wood subflooring/underlay. Treat the back of the carpet with urine odor remover and tack the carpet back down.
Concrete:
If allowed in your area, use a sodium hypochlorite bleach (1 tablespoon per gallon of water) to wash a concrete floor. Make sure the area is well ventilated, and eyes and hands are protected. Avoid all ammonia-containing cleaners.
Wooden baseboards/skirting boards:
Use a wood soap then seal the edge of the board to the wall with a silicone sealer.
Walls:
Use a product designed for urine and stain removal.
Bedding:
Launder in washing machine using your usual soap or detergent; add a peroxide-based bleaching agent, if available.
Upholstery:
Use products designed for these materials; for example, fabric or leather cleaners.
Diagnostic Tests
Diagnostic tests can also be used to rule out medical issues. Speak with your veterinarian about which test(s) might be right for your cat.
Urinalysis
Chemistry Profile
CBC (Complete Blood Count
Fecal (float)
Urine Culture & Sensitivity
Ultrasound
Radiograph(s)
*** NOTE: There are no anti-anxiety medications approved for use in cats. These drugs are prescribed for feline use as anextra-label application. Anti-anxiety drugs may cause side effects such as sedation, dilated pupils, weight gain, diabetes, increased appetite, liver and kidney disease, and cardiac arrhythmias. Do not change the medication dosing or frequency without consulting with your veterinarian. Laboratory tests are required before and during the use of many of these medications. Keep these medications out of the reach of children. Full effects may take up to 4–6 weeks to be seen.
